We Buy & Sell Second Hand Watches

A

Annual calendar
 - a watch displaying the day, date, month, and 24 hours that adjusts automatically for short and long months. An annual calendar requires only a single manual correction per year from the end of February to the 1st of March.

Analogue - This is a watch that you can tell the time using hour and minute hands. 



Analog – Digital: This is a watch that has both hands and a digital display in numbers. 


Aperture - (or dial window)
A small opening in a dial plate through, which various information is displayed: date, hours, day of the week.

Applique 
- Numerals or symbols stuck or riveted to a dial.

ATM
 - Unit of pressure used in watch making to indicate the level of water resistance.

Automatic - An automatic watch has a mechanical movement and does not need to be regularly wound. Its power comes from the movement of your wrist as you wear it. Most automatic watches have a power reserve of up to 36 hours. An automatic watch contains a self-winding, mechanical watch movement that is wound by the movement of the wearer. A heavy pivoted rotor turning back and forth transmits its energy to the spring by means of an appropriate mechanism.

B

Balance
 - A wheel-like device which, by rotating back and forth, regulates the gear train movement as uniform as possible.

Balance-cock 
- A separate bridge holding the balance and regulator assemblies.

Barrel
thick - wheel featuring a toothed disc on one face and containing the mainspring of a watch movement.

Battery - Reserve Indicator:
Some Quartz watches have this function. The watch will indicate when the battery is nearing the end of its life. This can often be seen by observing the movement of the hands which will jump 2-4 seconds depending upon the make and model.

Bezel - The Bezel is the ring around the dial of the watch. Often it serves as other functions (as is the case with a Bi-directional Rotating Bezel). It is often made of Stainless Steel or Gold (or Gold Plated).

Bolt - (or slide) operating part, on repeater watches, made of the same metal as the case and shifted along the caseband with the fingernail. The repeating-slide winds the spring of the striking mechanism.



Bottom - plate
a metal plate bearing the bridges and various parts of the movement.

Bracelet 
- Linked metal strap on a watch. You can change the length by removing links. 


Bridge - (or bar, or cock)
A metal movement part that is attached to a bottom plate and holds at least one bearing of a rotating part.

Brushed - Stainless Steel with a Matt 'brushed' effect finish.

Buckle -
 The buckle joins the strap together and is often made of the same material as the case of the watch.


C


Calendar -
 Date Indicator



Calibre - 
In simple terms, it means "diameter". In watchmaking, the term refers to the specific layout and shape of a movement and the bridges, and its various components as well as the designer of the movement.

Carillon - Striking mechanism, or chime, that involves two or more bells of varying tones.

Case 
- The container housing the movement of the watch and protecting it against dust, moisture, jarring and other hazards. Usually consisting of the case band, the bezel, and the caseback.

Caseback -
 The bottom of the watchcase that can be opened for access to the watch movement.

Caseband 
- The watchcase edge between the bezel and caseback. Also called the middle.

Central - 
part of the watch-case, which houses the movement.

Chamfer - (or bevel)
To take down a sharp angle into a flat edge, which often produces a luminous strip along the contours of the chamfered part or area. Hand chamfering results in particularly clean recessed and protruding angles.

Chronograph -
 Is a device that measures elapsed time. With a second hand independent of the watch's timekeeping, it rotates one revolution a minute, and can be started, stopped, and returned to zero by buttons on the caseband. Totalizers can be used to display total elapsed time from minutes into hours, and even day’s. A watch with 3 sub-dials within the larger dial.

Chronometer -
 technically speaking, all watches are chronometers. Today, watches must qualify as chronometers, and most all chronometers today meet the ISO 3159 standard set by the Swiss Official Chronometer Control (C.O.S.C.). The watch would have been rigorously tested for its accuracy at various temperatures and in different atmospheres and is supplied with a certificate.

Circular Graining -
 A surface decoration of slightly overlapping concentric circles, often found on the bridges and base of watch movements and even occasionally on dials.


Clasp
 - The attachment used to connect the two ends of the watch strap or bracelet around the wrist.



Complications - 
Supplementary time mechanisms, with the exception of the display of hours, minutes and seconds, that are added to a basic movement. complications belong to three main categories: those that provide extra time indications; those that strike or chime the time of day; and those that provide a variety of astronomical indications. "Grand Complication" watches feature mechanisms from all three above categories.



Côtes de Genève - The term means "Geneva ribbing" which are regular, parallel strokes that impart a ribbed aspect to the surface of given parts, often the bars and bridges of a movement.

Cosmograph
 - as with a Chronograph, except that the Tachymeter function is found on the bezel of the watch

Crown
 - The crown is the button on the side of the watch (usually the right), which changes the time and date of the watch. The Crown is also used to wind the watch depending on its movement.

Crystal
 - The transparent cover on a watch face made of glass crystal, synthetic sapphire or plastic. Better watches often have a sapphire crystal, which is highly resistant to scratching or shattering.

D



Deployment - Buckle 
The clasp folds under the strap of the watch.


Dial
Disc - or plate made of metal or another substance, inscribed with various markings, including obvious indications for the hours, minutes and seconds. Uniquely varied in shape, decoration and material, they are inscribed with numerals, figures, symbols, divisions and other information.



Divers - Watch
A watch that is water resistant to 200M, has a one-way rotating bezel and a screw-on crown and back, has a metal bracelet or rubber strap.


Diver's - Clasp
 Suitable to wear over a diving suit


Dual Time Zone
 - A watch that displays two time zones, to simultaneously keep track of local time and time in another country.



E

Ebauche 
- A French term for a movement blank, which is an incomplete watch movement before its assembly is completed, and comprises the main plate, the bridges, the train, the winding and setting mechanism and the regulator. Not part of the ebauche is the timing system, the escapement and the mainspring.



End of Life - (EOL)
Indicates the end of life of a battery within a quartz watch by succesive jumps of the seconds hand of 4 seconds or a flashing digital display.

Etablissage 
- French term for the method of manufacturing watches and/or movements by assembling their various components. It generally includes the following operations: receipt, inspection and stocking of the "ébauche", the regulating elements and the other parts of the movement and of the make-up; assembling; springing and timing; fitting the dial and hands; casing; final inspection before packing and dispatching.



Equation - of time
the amount of time used to compensate for difference between true solar time to the mean, or civil, solar time at any given time.



Escapement
 - The mechanism that "releases" the energy that maintains the oscillations of the balance wheel

.



F



Factory - works
In the Swiss watch industry, the term "manufacture" means a factory in which watches are manufactured almost completely, as distinct from an "atelier de terminage", which is concerned only with assembling, timing, fitting the hands and casing.



Fly-back Hand - , (retrograde date hand)
Usually, a hand indicating a date or time against a scale and then "flies back" to catch up with to another date or time. For example, a hand that "flies back" to the beginning of the month after reaching the 28th, 29th, 30th, or 31st day of the month.

Fold over clasp 
- Hinged and jointed element, normally of the same material as the one used for the case. It allows easy fastening of the bracelet on the wrist.


Frequency
the number of vibrations a second, in hertz (Hz).

GMT - 
Greenwich Mean Time. As a feature of watches, it means that two or more time zones are displayed.



Grand strike -
 ("Grande sonnerie" in french)Mechanism that can automatically sound the hours and quarter hours and which repeat hours, quarters and minutes on demand

Gold
 - is a metal that is used as an alloy frequently in watch making. The amount of gold is measured in Carats. 


Guilloche - 
Decoration of dials, rotors or case parts consisting of patterns made by hand or engine-turned. By the thin pattern of the resulting engravings & consisting of crossing or interlaced lines

H


Hands 
- The pointing device anchored at the center and circling around the dial indicating hours, minutes, seconds and any other special features of the watch.



Helium - Escape Valve
Decompression System allowing helium to escape from inside the watch. Used professionally in decompression chambers. 


Horology -
 The science of measuring time and technology of constructing instruments for its measurement or recording.

 The art and study of watch making.

Horns
 - The parts on a wristwatch case, usually joined to the central piece, to which the straps are attached.

I

J


Jewel
 -  a synthetic ruby used for making low friction bearing in which the delicate pivots of the movement wheels run in. In some deluxe watches, sometimes sapphires or garnets are used. Expensive watch movements are jeweled from the barrel to the balance, and all automatic work, date and complication movements are expected to be jeweled. Most watches with mechanical movements will contain at least 17 jewels.

Jumping hours - 
On a watch dial, the digital numbers representing hours appearing through a small aperture or window

K

Kinetic
 - Based on a new technology, Seiko Kinetic watches run entirely on generated energy from natural movement of your wrist. It does not require a battery.

L

LCD 
- Liquid crystal display. This digital time display is used by longines to give
additional chronograph indications.



Lesser - strike
("Petite sonnerie" in french)Striking-mechanism setting limited to the automatic strike of hours



Lever 
- Any pivoting element and anchor-shaped part made of steel or brass that is part of the escapement.



Lugs 
- On the case, this is where the bracelet or strap is joined.



Luminous 
- Illuminating paint on the batons, numerals and/or hands of certain watches.

M



Manual - movement
A mechanical movement in which winding is performed by hand. The motion transmitted from the user's fingers to the crown is forwarded to the movement through the winding stem to the barrel, through a series of gears to the mainspring.


Manufacture - 
In the Swiss watch industry, this French term names companies where the watch manufacturer produces in-house all the major parts and components of a watch. Opposite from a "manufactory" which is to an "assembler" who merely puts together movements from parts acquired elsewhere, times and adjusts the movements, and fits on the hands and cases them up.



Mechanical - movement
A movement based on a mainspring which is wound by hand; when wound, it slowly unwinds the spring in an even motion. An automatic mechanical requires no winding because of the rotor, which winds the mainspring every time you move your body.

Military - or 24-hour time
When time is measured in 24-hour segments. To convert 12-hour time into 24-hour time, simply add 12 to any p.m. time. To convert 24-hour time into 12-hour time, subtract 12 from any time from 13 to 24.

Mineral - glass
Watch glass that has been tempered to increase its scratch resistance

Minute - repeater
A complication on a watch that can strike the time in hours, quarters, or seconds by means of a push piece.

Mirror - polish
Extremely meticulous and elaborate polishing operation resulting in a flawlessly bright and smooth surface, absolutely free from scratches and blemishes.



Moon phase
 - An indicator that keeps track of the phases of the moon. A regular rotation of the moon is once around the earth every 29 days, 12 hours, and 44 minutes. once set, the moon phase indicator accurately displays the phase of the moon.


Mother of Pearl - 
Iridescent, milky interior shell of the fresh water mollusk that is sliced thin and used on watch dials. While most have a milky white luster, mother-of-pearl also comes in other colors such as silvery gray, gray blue, pink, and salmon.


Movement
 - The assembly making up the principal elements and mechanisms of a watch or clock: the winding and setting mechanism, the mainspring, the train, the escapement, and the regulating elements This is the engine of the watch.

N

O

Oyster 
- Invented in 1926 by Rolex. At the time it was described as" the first waterproof, airtight and dustproof watch. Named Oyster due to its shape.

P

Pallet
Steel - or brass part of watch that controls the small rotation of a ratchet wheel.



Perpetual
 - A perpetual rotor converts the movement of the wrist into energy that can be stored and powers the watch

Perpetual calendar
 - a complication displaying the day of the week, the date, the month - also correcting for leap years - and the phases of the moon. Operating on the 400 year cycle, perpetual calendars require no manual correction before February 2100.Perpetual calendars are almost always self winding and, if worn constantly, are one of the most useful of all complications.

Power reserve
 - The time a watch will continue running based on the movement's residual winding of its mainspring.

Pink Gold - (Also Rose Gold)
Gold Metal with a pink/rose tint


Platinum
 Polished
 - Shiny Stainless Steel used in many fashion pieces. (As opposed to Brushed)

Q

Quartz movement - 
A movement powered by a quartz crystal that keeps very accurate time.

R

Racks 
- The striking mechanism incorporates three round-shaped parts called racks: one for the hours, one for the quarters and one for the minutes.


Repeater
 - A watch mechanism that sounds hours, quarters or minutes or repeats them on request. First designed to help the wearer to tell the time in the dark, they were always the most complex of watches and were the most difficult to miniaturize to fit into a wristwatch.



Rolseium - Rolesor 
Stainless Steel and 18ct Gold Case and Bracelet on a Rolex.



Rotating Bezel
 - A bezel that can be turned. Different types of rotating bezels perform different functions.

Rotor
 - In automatic winding mechanisms, an unbalanced, semicircular metal turns freely in both directions winding the mainspring.
 


S

Sapphire Crystal
 - A transparent crystal frequently used in watch making due to its resistance to scratching.

Screw-Locking Crown (Also Screw-in Crown)
The screw-in crown seals the crown against the case and aids water resistance.

Skeleton
 Watch - in which the case and various parts of the movement are cut away to reveal the watch's mechanical elements.

Slide (-bolt)
 Found on the case middle and operated with a fingernail, the slide triggers or locks a function or mechanism. The repeater slide also serves to wind the striking mechanism.

Snail
 notched - cam for the hours, quarters or minutes. Named after its shape, it is used to mechanically set a wide range of indications.

Solid End Links (SEL) - 
On some recent Rolex watches they have solid links on the bracelet. 



Split-seconds chronograph - 
A chronograph mechanism controlling two second hands, one called the split-seconds hand, superimposed on one another.

Stainless Steel
 - A Metal alloy which is known for its resistance to rusting. The most common metal used in watch making.

Strap
 - A band to secure the watch to your wrist. Can be leather, rubber, canvas etc.



Stamp/swage
 - A precision tool that has stamps and presses components of a movement, through shaping, bending, blanking and cutting them.



Subdial(s)
 - A smaller dial within the face on a Chronograph to display other functions, such as the date.



Sun/Moon Indicator
 - A wheel visible on the dial of a watch displaying the sun and moon over a 24 hour period.

T

Tachymeter
 - Often used in the motor industry to measure the speed of a car over a specific distance. Functions via a scale on the bezel of a chronograph. Average speeds or hourly production rates can be calculated over a period of observation of less than 60 seconds



Titanium - 
A stronger and lighter metal than Stainless Steel and increasingly used to make watches.

Tonneau Watch - 
Describing the shape of a watch case that looks like a barrel with tow bulging sides.



Tourbillon
 - A regulating device that cancels the effects of gravitation on the precision of a watch movement by rotating the balance, lever and escapement around a single axis. The mechanism that even in its most conventional version, is extremely hard to manufacture.




Train 
- A set of wheels and pinions in a watch movement.



U

V

Vibration - 
Describes the movement of a pendulum or other oscillating element, limited by two consecutive extreme positions. The balance of a mechanical watch making five or six vibrations per second vibrates at 18,000 or 21,600 times per hour.


W

Waterproof
 - Beware if a watch is described as waterproof as this would not be the case. No watch is considered 100% Water Proof and watches are not allowed to be termed as such. See Water Resistant for correct terminology)



Water Resistance
 - A watch classed as this is able to withstand splashes of water (Eg. In the kitchen or in the rain) but cannot be used for swimming or diving. Diving watches are classified as "Water resistant to 200 meters" to indicate the depth to which it can withstand pressure. For more details see individual model descriptions 



White Gold
 - An 18k alloy of yellow gold with nickel or similar metal

X

Y



Yellow Gold
 - Either 14k or 18k. The traditional gold used in watch making in both all gold or bi-metal combinations.